April 2: Pamukkale to Kusadasi
Pamukkale pools

Pamukkale (near Hierapolis) is a magical and extraordinary natural wonder, unique in the world. It is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

As you approach the site of Pamukkale a long white smudge along the hills to the north suggests a landslide or open cast mine. Getting closer, this resolves into the edge of a plateau, more than 100m higher than the level of the river valley and absolutely smothered in white travertine terraces.

Pamukkale is one of the most extraordinary natural wonders in Turkey. Dozens of buses daily make the long excursion, three hours drive from Bodrum, Marmaris or Kusadasi. The big attraction is a vast white cliff side with scallop-shaped basins of water and frozen waterfalls. It looks as if it's made out of snow or cloud or balls of cotton.

The scientific explanation is that hot thermal springs pouring down the hillside deposit calcium carbonate, which solidifies as travertine. If you take off your shoes, you can gingerly roam the terraces or paddle in the pools. The Turks have dubbed this geological fairyland Pamukkale, or "cotton castle".

Unfortunately, the place was literally abused for decades in the late 20th century, as hotels were built on top of the site, destroying parts of the remains of Hierapolis. The hot water was taken to fill the hotel pools, and the waste water was even spilled over the monument itself which turned brownish. In addition, a tarmac road ramp was built right into the main part. People walked around with shoes, washed themselves with soap and shampoo in the pools, and even rode bikes and motorbikes up and down the slopes.

After the UNESCO turned its attention to Pamukkale, and the site was dramatically losing its attraction, the officials finally acted. The hotels at the top were demolished, and the road ramp was covered with artificial pools which nowadays are, unlike the most other parts, accessible to bare-footed tourists. Even tadpoles can be found in there.

It is reported that the site is now losing water to the hotels at the bottom of the hill but some say the problem is slowly being solved. A small artificial creek is running along the outside of the ramp, collecting the water, preventing it from spilling the "wrong" places. The brownish parts are left to be bleached by the sun first, without being covered by water, as this would worsen the problem. Many pools are thus empty. Others parts are covered with water for an hour or two according to a schedule which is on display on top of the hill.